Branson to Cassville (81 km)



Katrin on the iceberg that sunk the Titanic



Leaving Branson meant driving along the strip and admiring the amazing buildings there. I believe, noboby can do this better than the Americans. Even the Titanic turned up, apparently the biggest Titanic museum inthe world. a bit weird, so far from the Atlantic. 

Then we were back in the forest, what a contrast, from the colors of the city to the colors of the forest. 

We stopped at a Mc Donald´s to get a good coffee. It wasn´t long and Frank was disussing with a couple. They just had asked from were we are and then we discussed almost an hour, what a gift.

It strikes me here on our tour that our European picture of the Americans might not be right. In Europe, Americans tend to be seen as superficial and not very informed. Our experience here is different. The people are very curious. They might not exactly know the difference between Sweden and Switzerland, but do we know something about the state of Oklahoma or Missouri? What they definitly are, they are very poitical. Most discussions touch politics here, most people say they have a political mess here and everybody we talked to wanted to end that mess. USA Today, a widespread newspaper showed a poll today, what the people rate as the most important issues. 

1. National dept
2. Jobs and the economy
3. Moral issues such as gay marriage and abortion

Global terrorism comes in 7th place, environment wasn´t even listed (that is really worying).
But then when you watch TV or read the newspapers, the picture becomes different. The media concentrates on the question whether the campain Manager of Cain is smoking! Or that Cain in the ninthies might have behaved sexually inappropriate. (a claim that came just up, after 20 years!)

We just get the impression, that the people here are much more concerned with meaningful questions and that the media (and as written yesterday the church) are a bit out of touch with the real life, and too much focused on negativ breaking news. This is very general, I know, but I just watched the News (FOX). More commercials than content, and the content, not really much information. 

Biking this country is such a great way to see America and to really like its people and nature.

And by the way, today is Haloween!!!!!!

Restday in Branson Missouri

This part of the US belongs to the Bible belt and indeed, there are incountable churches along the way. That made us curious and as it was Sunday, we went to a Cowboy Gospel Church in Branson. It started very personal, every visitor gets personally greeted with a handshake and we were also told, that we can buy popcorn, coffee or other drinks to take with us. The service was held in a large concert hall, filled with 95% people older than 60! The service started with really good christian country music. It was a very easy going, we prayed for the veterans, we prayed for the sick people in the community, we prayed for the country. The pastor spoke little in between, the show was mainly done by the singer, a Joan Baez looking like lady of arround 70 years. A good sense of fun and humour was with her. But then, she started to confess how much she had sined in her earlier life and how God had save her. While doing so, tears rolled down her cheeks. It sounded honest and sincere. Then the pastor came!
He went on for a long time, thundering that America has lost its moral foundations, which should be the book of Genesis. He said the Bible is right, evolution took never place, all teachers spoil the kids, because they dont use the Bible for the teachings anymore. Off course the government wasnt praised, but the Tea Party was mentioned as being the one that still stands up for the moral in the US.

It was unreal, we couldn´t believe it. Whatever the pastor said was cheered or people shouted Amen!



Entrance to the Dolly Parton house



We went out having seen a strong political force, because these older folks will vote and if they get every sunday that kind of a brainwash they might vote for the Tea Partie, causing the US to become more and more threatened by this religious blindness. 

More fun was the Dolly Parton Stampede in the evening, we celebrated our first Christmas here, it was a Christmas show.      



Gainesville to Branson (103 km)

First thing in the morning was a photoshooting at the townsquare in Gainesville. There a fondraising run for breast cancer was going to take place and the local newspaper journalist editor was there with her camera. We were greeted as if we had always been there, then the pictures were taken and the run had started. We continued our tour, through this seemingly endless country and the Mark Twain National Forest. 

In the middle of nowhere we found a little hot-dog place, "The Smothered Mutt" run by two cheerful ladies. They had only started 6 months ago and to our surprise, as Ronnie told us that it works out very well! Again one of this great spirits here, they were out of work, but risked their savings to start this business and it works. We envied them for their little paradies. And, we got the best coleslow ever served to us on this journey.

Later in the evening we reached Branson, the music and show capital of the middle. It has a strip as long as Las Vegas, but everything is much smaller, no casinos but more entertainment. We got a hotelroom for two nights, including a ticket to a "American Legends in Concert" show. (for 179 Dollars!!!) So we rushed to shower and off to the show, which was fantastic. Bette Middler, The Blues Brothers, Elvis Presley and more sung and it sounded and looked very real!

We had a lot of fun, Katrin was even invited onstage with the Blues Brothers. The evening ended in a pub nearby, where we danced with our tired legs to good old Country music!  

Mammoth Springs to Gainesville (99km)

Mammoth Spring is home of the second biggests freshwater spring of he US, just next to our hotel. Of course we went to have a look and indeed, there was a pond where 9 Million gallons of water per minute come out of the ground. Very impressiv! The story behind it is, that during a severe drought, the indians living in that area were desperatly looking for water. They did not find water and the son of the chief died while looking for iwater. When he was buried, on the site where they started to dig the hole, water began to flow, which was this very spring. 

The spring made Mammoth Springs a very busy town in 1820 - 1920, industries settled there, which were driven first by the water power directly, later through the electricity generated by it. The town was once as important as Memphis! But now all is gone, the old industrial buildings disappeared, even the generator for electricity is not used anymore, which is difficult to understand, seeing the amount of water! A sign was posted, that 1981 an evaluation was made an based on that, it was considered not economical to renovate the power generation.  Energy generation with coal is probably still cheaper and that counts here today!

The rest of the day was magic driving through the Ozarks again, it just couldn´t be more beautiful! But, the mountains are a tough callenge, constantly up and down.   

In the evening we arrived very exhausted at our hotel in Gainesville. But we got such a friendly welcome, the manager even called the local newspaper and then made a little interview with us, she thought it is a interesting story for he local newspaper.



Poplar Bluff to Mammoth Spring, Arkansa (133 km)



Cindy an Dee with us



It was a rainy day and much colder than the days before. But driving in the rain is surprisingly comfortable, we have good weathergear and the only important thing is to dry everything in the evening. A long trip was ahead and with light tailwind we quickly reached our lunchstop town: Doriphan. In these small towns the best coffee is served at Mc Donalds, that made our choice. Usually the Mc Donalds have large windows fronts, so people see us coming and when we sat down yesterday, a lady came to our table to ask where we are from. We explained it to her, she wished us well and of she was. But an other lady had overheard our brief conversation, came also to our table and asked whether we are from Sweden. She just had heard the S..... She has Swedish ancestors so it made her curious. We started to chat, she Cindy, had lived close to Aspen, Colorado but moved here, retiring is cheaper in this area. But also a lot more boring she said, but she seemed fine and with a good sense of humour. Then her friend Dee joined us. Dee thought she should call the local newspaper to let them know, that two Swiss are cycling through the area. So she called and the journalist was eager to see us. A moment later a city counsil, who happened to sit in the place too, came to our table and welcomed us here, it was great. When the journalist came we were all photografed and asked some question. After almost two hours, we started to run late and had urgently to leave. We got many good wishes and off we were into the rain.

I often wrote how friendly Canadiens are, but here in the Middle of the US, people are also very nice, really friendly and often curious were we are from and too. And the landscape is breathtaking, rolling hills, covered with trees and meadows, cattle on it, old barns standing there. It almost the Countryside we know from movies or the Malboro commercials. 

The hills though were testing us, we moved slower that expected and the last hour we drove in the dark. Fortunately the road had only very little traffic. After checking into our hotel we needed to eat something and went to the Steakhouse over the road, nest to a gas station. It looked quite run down, not really inviting. But surprise, we got the best steak and baked potato ever on our trip, very friendly waitress and Frank got even a sample off their chilli, which tasted heavenly. Just like that, to let him know how good it is! 

Cape Girardeau to Poplar Bluff (108km)

Yesterday we saw what happens when the hot air from the Caribien clashes with cold air from the North. We rode under dark skies with lightening and some very heavy but warm rain. Still, it was very nice to drive. We came across the first hills of the Ozark Mountains, it is like a rollercoaster, very steep climbs and descents. Its a very quiet and incredible beautiful region, few houses, lots of forest. We seldom meet people, but almost every car passing us waves friendly. When we talk to people, they are very surprised that someone is bicycling through this area and especially doing such a long trip.

In the evening we found a nice lodge, got a room with jacuzzi. Of course we had a long bath, our legs were more that sour from the hills. The evening ended in the local bar, talking to everyone, enjoying the best Bloody Mary of the Country (that what the barkeeper said).

We met two carpenters, they build shops all over the country and are always on the road. They know the country very well, espcially every good bar in the country. The gave us many ideas where to go, but as often we realize, that what is a little detour by car is a long journey on the bike. But it was a lot of fun talking to them and to others, although the English here is not easy to understand, some have a very heavy slang.

Vienna to Cape Girardeau (84km)

The Tunnel Hill trail continued for another 20 km and we enjoyed it in the early morning. We had both woken up early and instead of waiting, we left for the road. Already early in the morning it was pleasantly warm, we drove in our T-shirts.

A shop like in Russia..

In the US we stay more in motels than B&B´s. There are simply less B&B´s here. Unfortunately the motel-breakfast is not really something that makes you want to get up early. In generall some very colorful and sweetened cereals, donuts, toast, jam and butter that is no butter. Some even offer fruits, but not all. Most have something where on can bake his own pancakes or waffles, something most people seem to like a lot. The coffee usually is more than weak, at least to our understanding. The worst, all the dishes, cups, spoons etc are plastic and throw away items!

For us, these breakfasts are rather painful, they do not last long once you are biking. So we usually eat our own Müesli mixture, that lasts till lunch. 

Our route went through farmland again, small villages where we stoped at this shop to buy some food. The shop was higly decorated with dog breeding trophies, but except for some chips, cherky´s and Pepsi, there was nothing to buy. But the friendy lady was sitting there, waiting for customers, while watchng TV.

After thousands ok kilometers in flat lands, we encountered some hills today, while driving through the Shawnee National Forest. They were almost welcome! Less welcome was the pityless southernly wind that drove us nearly mad. With gusts up to 60 miles, it was hard to stay on the bike when a gust was hitting. Especially on the finals miles, when we crossed over the Missisippi River into Missouri. On the bridge we had to stay very concentrated in order to make it to the other side. But, we made it, saw the Missisippi, which was very disappointing. Due to the draught here, the water is very low and seems very dirty.



The Missisippi River....



Camri to Vienna (111 km)

For anyone who love biking and forest, the Tunnel Hill Train is a great experience. Seldom we did so nice biking, 50 km through the forest along the old train track. The ground covered with automn leaves from the trees, the colors and the smell brought back memories from our childhood. On the whole trail we just meet 5 people, 3 deer and a snake. The rest was silence or the sound of the forest. Great!

Vincennes to Camri (100 km)

Today we finally crossed the Wabash River from the State of Indiana to Illinois. The bridge we crossed was an one track iron/wood bridge more than 100 years old. It had rained a bit and we walked the bridge, the wooden track was to slippery to drive. A pickup truck crossed us, stopped next to Frank. The driver, an older guy shouted without bothering to open his window: "This is Illinois, vote for Obama!" Frank didn´t understand so the guy shouted it again, before driving of. 

At the end of the bridge there was a tiny toll station. A smoking officer stood there, gazed at us in amazment. "I don´t know what to charge you guys, I never had bicyles passing here. I guess I let you go for free, welcome to Illinois."  So now we are in Illinois, the State from which President Obama originally comes.

Also we had to adjust our watches, one hour back. For us this is always a special moment, it shows us that we have done some distance, and we are also a bit proud of it. 



Our suite.....

 The rest of the day was farmland and straight roads as long as you can see. The wind was constantly blowing against us, which is extremly tiring. Although both of us are well fit by now, after a day like this, we are really exhausted. Frank finds it hard to eat enough, (still losing weight). So the last 20 kilometers become the longest part of the day, tired, hungry and the sattle feels more than uncomfortable. But, after a shower all is forgotten, except for the hunger.
Here in Camri we found a beautiful B&B in a historic house. We are the only guests, so we got the Finch Suite as an upgrade, like a little palast room, with a bathroom again almost as big as the room.

Terre Haute to Vincennes (110 km)

Today it was frosty outside when we got up. But with blue and cloudless sky it quickly warmed up. We left arround 10 am, no rush to freeze and then, what a day! It became almost sommer again, we drove in short troussers and T-shirts. The whole day the road brought us through the same countryside, flat with corn and soyafields. To our surprise we even saw pumpkin fields with thousands of pumpkins. With many forests, hedges and rivers, the landscape never gets boring, always something to see. Not many towns or villages were on our way and the ones we passed seemed nice but rather deserted. One small town, Palestine, was remarkable. It used to be full of live and importance, had even an operahouse, but today on main street two out of three shops are closed. Still it looks nice and tidy, but what happened to all the people? On main street we found a memorial for the US soldiers from Palestine who had fallen in Iraq and Afganistan. So many out of such a small place. Yesterday President Obama announced, that all American troops will be withdrawn from Iraq by the end of the year. Seeing the toll, one of these wars took even on a small community, one can only think, it was long ago time to do so! But finally they come back home.

We also passed a little shop selling antiques and at the same time its a small restaurant. We stoped and ate fantastic pumpkin pie with donut coffee. The owner once worked for Obama in the Illinois senate. He likes Obama (as we do) and told us, that this part of the US is very conservative, not easy for him as a liberal (or democrate). And like so many here, he has German roots and hopes one day to go again to Europe to see where all his ancestors come from. We could have chatted much longer with him, but it was already late and we still had 50 km to go. It was great to meet so nice people who have time to sit down for a chat! 

From Indianapolis to Terre Haute (141 km)

We had a short break writing the blog, because we brought my daugther Stefi to Chicago, from where she flew home. Thursday we stayed in Indianapolis, Frank´s bike had a flat tire, the bearing of the rear wheel started to go, so some repairs became urgent. It was an easy decision, because it rained all day long. In the evening we enjoyed a wonderful halloween theatre, with zombies and all you need to be afraid. Great performance in an old church. Unfortunately only about 8 people came to see the show, so we were heavily outnumbered by the zombies, but we didn´t get eaten by them.

Today we went on. First we tried on the old historic highway 40, but soon we gave up because the traffic was annoying. That brought us on nice country roads (42), rarely cars passing, scenic landscape and of course, many farms. We are really surprised how good the roads are in the US. Maybe that is one good side of the economical crisis, because the goverment spends a lot of money to improve the local infrastructure, such as roads in order to keep people working.

Lunch was in an all American small town pub, the only place in town. Countrymusic loud and nice, the service a lot ot fun but the food was just ok. What was cooked on site was ok, but then we had also some surprises. The bread came with butter, which wasn´t butter but was suposed to taste like butter. After reading about the ingrediants, Corn oil, palm oil, water, buttermilk etc. we didn´t eat it. Then Frank ordered a coffee. It came with cream.... or? No, it wasn´t cream, again something made out of cheap fats, chemistry and water to taste like cream. On the package was even written: Might contain milk! as if to warn people. ´We asked the waitress, why they serve that stuff. She laughed and said " its cheaper!" And then she asked us were we are from.

Anyway, it shows alot about the food culture, things must be cheap, but cheap things have their pricetag too. A lot of food we see here simply is made to look like the original but isnt. And probably, people get used to it. A bit sad, isn´t it!    

Busride to Chicago

We have almost no words to describe this city. It is truely huge and proud! Chicago is the third biggest town of the US, in the area live more than 10 million people. Lake Michigan looks like an ocean, has waves like an ocean.
We arrived yesterday late afternoon there, after 3 hours on the bus. From far, the skyline became visible, with skiscrapers that really had their tops in the clouds, they deserve their name!

We walked to our hotel, a long walk but fascinating to be in this canyons surrounded by high buildings. In the evening we found Michigan avenue, a shopping paradies and when you are traveling with two women, there is no way arround it. Some shops were awesome, top designed, really fun to be in. When the hunger finally drove us out of shopping, we found the best asian food ever on our trip.

This evening was the Republican presidential candidates debate in Las Vegas. Frank watched it, only to be severely depressed afterwards. It is unbelievable, that such a big multicultural country has nobody wiser and better who wants to become president. It´s a shame! The whole process seems to frigthen off decent and good candidates. What was frightening me was the tendency to concentrate on the US only, as if the world arround does not exist. Some even wanted to go on spending as much money on the army as now. Or go out of the UNO as quick as possible. Most of them said, government is the problem, they want to reduce it, but the question is where. Most agreed, that they want to reduce the environmental agencies, social care etc. But all said, they now how to fix the economie and get people back to work. No one sais how!

If one of these guys beats Obama, the US is on a straight way right into the third world! The only difference, they have the arms to blow up the whole planet! Therefore, the US can wreck the environment, the world economy and no other country or the UNO can sincerly do something about it. It is tremendously sad to see this great place in such a shape and with so much ignorance!

Marion to Indianapolis (115 km)

Today was Steffi´s last biking day, so we made it a long one. And to make it even tougher, the wind was back. But she made it without any complaints and after more than 6 hours on the bike we found our wunderful B&B (The Nestle) in downtown Indianapolis. Tomorrow we will take a bus and bring her to Chicago, from where she flies home! The bike we donate to a scholl nearby.
Unfortunately we had to stay on main road most of the way and as we approached Indianapolis the traffic became really a pain. It requires constant concentration and that makes it tiring. But the roads are really good, very few holes so that at least we do not have to watch out for that too. In future, we will try to avoid the big towns, too dangerous and no proper bikelanes.

That helps!

One funny thing here are the incountable signs on the roadside. While driving we see them and sometimes have to laugh about them. The main message, get something cheaper or go out and look for Jesus. The churches have a lot of signs. But nothing matches the advertising for food, all you can eat is very common. Yesterday after a long drive we saw a pancake restaurant where you can eat as much pancakes as you like for ..... 3.99. As hungry as we are after a day cycling, they would make a huge loss! But we didn´t try. We had a salat instead.  

Watch the words, all cut short!

Fort Wayne to Marion (81 km)

Driving through farmland, small towns (all seem very deserted) and from time to time through a forest. Main crops are soya and corn, sometimes we smell a pigfarm but except for horses, we never see animals outside.



Stefi and Katrin fighting with the wind



People told us, that they had a very dry summer here, we passed a lake which was half empty, as if we needed a confirmation of the dry summer. 

In Martin the local B&B was full, so we choose a Super 8 hotel. Probably for the last time! Under the bed we found an old food container, a toothbrush, the sink does not work, the lights were not all pluged in and the look of the carpet makes you wear shoes even inside. But, it is cheap, warm and we were just glad to have a room.

Restday in Fort Wayne

The windforcast made us stay here in Fort Wayne, but we also wanted to see this town a bit more. It was well worth it, a day full of events. It started with the Halloween Pet Parade. Unreal, just have a look at our picture. Then we walked straight into a anti Wall Street demonstration. That was very interesting, about 200 people had gathered to demonstrate against the fact, that 99% of the people are getting poorer and poorer, while the rest takes of the cream. Many speakers complained, that while the US is wasting its money on useless wars, the US does not even have the money to run a decent health care system. Of course, the political corruption, the loss of jobs, the bad financial situation of the country and its states as well as the sellout of US industry to China were loudly criticized. Finally I must say! I can only hope, that enough people wake up. It´s really sad to see what happens here. Today it was written in the newspaper, that Pittsburg (PA) has filled for bankrupty protection. The capital of Pennsylvania has a dept of 300 millon dollars with 49´000 people living there. One just wonders, what kind of political leaders such a place has. An other town just stopped paying for the firefighters, what means when it burns nobody might show up to fight the fire. Nevertheless, watching TV, the politicians in DC call the US the best country on earth. If that was true, perhaps its time to try an other planet.



The Masonic temple



After the demo we got un unexpected guided tour of a masonic temple, impressive and somehow chilling. But it seemed, that in modern times, there are not so active anymore.

The wonderfuil highlight came in the evening. We went to the theatre to see a musical of the story and fight of Hi-Hat Hattie. She was a black woman starring in "Gone with the wind" and got the first Oscar ever received by a black actor. It was a performance done by one woman alone, acting and singing, Pat Hunt her name. We loved her singing, Gospel and Blues. What a voice!   

     

Defiance to Fort Wayne (80 km)

First thing in the morning was to fix Katrin´s bicycle. It had two broken spokes and the wheel had become uneven. But we had incredible luck, in Definance a small town with not many shops left was an excellent bicycle shop, with Don and Jim running it. They fixed it very well, while Katrin was going to see the local church. The secretary of the church community was so happy and proud of her church, that she gave Katrin a big tour of the whole church.

In the meantime Stefi and Frank bought a new mobile phone, as our Canadien one doesnt work in the US. That is surprisingly easy here, prepaid, no adress asked. That surprised me after the whole 9/11 and security discussion we hear here and felt at the border.



Parking problem solved

  But then, no way arround it, we had to get on the road. The weatherforcast had issued a wind warning, and they were right! Since Newfoundland we never ever had such a headwind! The difference to Newfoundland, it neither rained nor was it cold.



Everything is bigger here... even the pumkins

 So we struggled hard, driving the entire way in each other´s wind shadow, which helps alot, but requires a lot of attention, therefore you dont see so much of the landscape. We stayed along the Maumee River, perfect road and most of the time no traffic at all. But the towns along the way looked deserted, many shops closed.

Once we had a stop next to a forest and some maizefields. We were sitting there peacefully and all of a sudden out of nowhere, the farmer arrived. "Do you wanna camp here?" he wanted to know. Only when he heard, that we have not even camping gear on us he introduced himself by his name and was very friendly, telling us that he had German roots. We suspected that someone must gave given him a hint, that we are sitting there.

We arrived late in Fort Wayne, found a B&B with kitchen and cooked ourselfs a delicious meal fat free!

Toledo to Defiance (103 km)



a true patriot´s home



The weatherforcast predicted a dry morning and a wet afternoon. They were 100% right! Although we left early we got once again wet to the bones, just one shower of 15 minutes was enough. But it remained pleasantly warm and the fall colors are overwhelming.

We drove along the Maumee River, passed huge and beautiful villas with wonderful gardens and old trees. It seems to us that the really big houses here are even bigger that the onces we saw in Canada. It was just a pleasant driving day, through little towns, farmland and forest, without much traffic.

Who would build such a nice house and lake next to a highway?

Unfortunately finding an accommodation in Definance was the hardest part of the day. In Defiance, we checked the three listed B&B´s, drove to all of them. Only one still existed and there was nowbody home. So we ended up once again in a Holiday Inn, ok but we miss the nice people and chats we enjoyed in the B&B´s.  



Windsor to Toledo,USA (99 km)

Whatever we said yesterday about US Customs, well today we experienced a second and very quick reentry into the US. It started with a short trip in a taxi, because we were neither allowed to use the bridge over the Detroit River nor the Tunnel under the river. So our only option was by car and we packed all 3 bikes, all the luggage and us into a van. The officer at the border looked a bit surprised to see so much gear and people in that car. Then he asked what we want to do in the US. He couldn´t believe it. Then he asked who was with Frank. "my girlfriend and my daugther, I am divorced" did Frank reply and the officer said:" That makes sense!"

With that remark we were allowed to enter. The taxi brought us front of the GM´s office towers, the US car headquarters, where we unloaded.

From there we drove out of Detroit, through partly empty gost suburbs, empty houses and closed industrie along he way. A strange and uninviting area. But surprisingly good roads.

Along the way we had our usuall lunchbreak. This time in a pizza restaurant, from the outside and inside nothing special, but the pizza was huge and tasted very good. The best on our trip. The owner is medical retired, was a GM chief manager and does this now as his expensive hobby. He likes to meet people. Nice guy, as all we met.

The weather was light drizzle but the wind was pushing us well forward. We made it further than anticipated, all th way to Toledo. Its another big town and yet again we had the impression it is in bad shape like Detroit. Even downtown many houses are empty, burned or just deserted. And very little shops or people are arround. Katrin and Frank went for a walk in the evening it it seemed like a gosttown. No place to stay.

  

Restday in Detroit

We left early by bus which runs through a tunnel under the river to Detroit-USA. As soon as the bus had crossed the tunnel we were stopped by the border control. Each vehicle got photographed from all sides, which of course is a rather slow process. But, that is nothing to what expected us next. All passengers had to leave the bus and proceed through a door to a large room, whit many counters. Each counter had computers, cameras, fingerprint readers. But, what was missing was the staff behind this marvellous toys. On friendly officer was standing there, receiving all passengers and sending them to the only counter that was working (means someone behind it) or if you had bad luck, to the next room. When it was our turn, he asked us which nationality and then send us right away to the next room. "Just a few minutes" he said and wrote our names on a list he was working on.

This few minutes became many, many minutes. Also in this second room there were at least 5 counters, but again, only two occupied. Also in this room on a row of chairs were sitting all the difficult cases like us and some of them took time! What was really unbelievable, the whole place was filled with heavily dressed officers, they all wore uniforms, guns, handcuffs, and many more things that looked rather impressiv. To our surprise they all moved in slow motion, 2 minutes work, then off to somewhere undisclosed, then back 2 minutes, then off to get somethig to drink.

Just before Frank was ready go stay in Canada, we were called and after waiting useless so long, were given green forms to fill out. Then it took some more 2 minute breaks, some questions (but not whether Frank is a  UBS banker) and eventually we were done! Welcome to the USA. But remarkably, the officers were all friendly, helpful, just slow. I wonder whether they want to fright terrorist away through the waiting lines! I have seen more efficient border crossing in African countries. What a bad way to welcome visitors, it the first impression you get of the US and a nice picture of Obama smiling at you does not help!
The remains of the day we spend in the Museum of African American History. Very touching, it is unbelievable what humans can do to each other. The museum told the story of slavery, which was only abolished in 1867! Not so long ago.The exhibition is very well made, everyone should see it! It´s run only by black people who are very proud of it. And of their black president! Talking to them, they are very sour about the Republican Party which does everything to prevent Obama from having any succees in his precidency. In the evening we went back to sleep in Canada, the border crossing took 2 minutes, like in Europe. Wohhhhhh!

Moraviantown to Windsor (134 km)

It was a long day, especially for Stefi who is new with us on the tour. But she and Katrin were really great and we made it to our final Canadian city: Windsor. 
From far we could see the smog over the town of Detroit, then closer the skyscraper, GMC buildings in also in Detroit became visible. Windsor is a rather small town, has a important university but seems to be dominated by the big city across the river: Detroit! But Windsor too has a history. For many slaves fleeing the US arround 1800 to 1850 it was the place where they got to. And Windosr is Canadas most southern city, with a rather mild climate. We drank some excellent wine produced here in the area. 

For us, Windsor is the end of our Canadien days and we feel sad to leave this friendly and colorful country. It has taken us 4070 km to get from St.John´s to Windsor, most off them we enjoyed, but certainly not all! We met many, many people and all off them made this part of the journey so special.

But, we leave Canada not yet: Tomorrow we go by bus to Detroit and return for one last evening to Canada.   

Streetmusic in Windsor

London to Moraviantown (87 km)

It was a peaceful sunday morning and we were happy to be on the road again. A bit later than we had hoped, but once again we chatted to long. This time with Brian, a lawyer we met in the hotel. He told us, that Canadiens always have the winter in the back of their head. The cold and long winter here, lots of snow, power breakdowns etc. : All that comes every year again with great force and sets limits to life.

With that in mind we left into this warm day, with temperature is far above normal, we certainly had 25 plus degres once again. Some bikers we met gave us good hints which roads to take and following their advice, we drove for hours almost undisturbed by traffiic through fields, farmland and indian fall colored forests. A bikers dream!
The night we spend in a Log home (Blockhaus) B&B, a newly build simple house in a First Nation area. Our host was a First Nation born lady. She had a lot to tell about the life she has had, so we sat outside on the veranda listening to her and watching the moon rise. The First nation reserves are very special areas, where the aboriginals still live to their laws, although certain federal laws apply also.
Again we were amazed by the trust she showed towards us. She had to work in the morning, so she gave us the housekey and showed us were the breakfast stuff is. All she knew from us were our first names!